HDMI “No signal” on a TV or monitor? Fixes for PCs, laptops, consoles and boxes
“No signal” means the screen sees nothing arriving on the input it's watching. Either the source isn't sending, the cable isn't carrying it, or the two ends can't agree on a picture format.
What “No signal” tells you
The screen is on and watching an input, but nothing it can decode is arriving. That narrows it to four things, checked here in the order that fixes most cases: the input, the handshake, the cable or port, and the source itself.
1. Right input, then the power-cycle order
- Use the remote's Input / Source button and pick the HDMI number printed beside the socket you used. Many TVs label them HDMI 1-4; some monitors also have an "auto source" option that can get stuck.
- Power-cycle both ends properly: turn off the TV and the source, unplug both from the wall for a full minute (this clears the HDMI chips, not just standby), reconnect the cable firmly, then power on the screen first and the source second. This fixes a surprising number of handshake failures.
2. Handshake and HDCP
Before any picture appears, the two devices exchange what formats they support (EDID) and, for most TV and film apps, set up copy protection (HDCP). If that fails, you get no signal, a blank screen for a few seconds at a time, or a message about HDCP.
Want to see that conversation happen? Wirebook has an interactive TV-and-console handshake: swap the TV, cable, soundbar or splitter and watch it pick a picture, step down, sparkle or end in "No signal".
- Splitters, cheap switches, capture cards and older AV receivers often break HDCP. Plug the source straight into the screen to test.
- On TVs, turn the "enhanced" HDMI mode for that input off and on again (Samsung Input Signal Plus, LG HDMI Ultra HD Deep Colour, Sony HDMI signal format). Some older sources can't handle the enhanced mode; some newer ones need it.
- HDMI-CEC (Anynet+, SimpLink, Bravia Sync) can switch inputs or wake devices at the wrong moment. Turning it off on the TV is a good test.
3. Cable and port
- Swap in a cable you know works. HDMI cables fail at the plug, and a cable that's fine for 1080p can fail at 4K, 4K HDR or 120 Hz. For PS5, Xbox Series X|S and 4K 120 Hz, use the cable that came with the console or an "Ultra High Speed" certified cable.
- Try a different HDMI port on the TV. Also look for bent pins or a socket that wobbles.
- Remove extensions, wall plates and couplers; each joint is another chance to lose signal.
4. The screen can't show what's being sent
If the source is set to a resolution or refresh rate the screen doesn't support (say a PC set to 144 Hz on a 60 Hz TV, or a console set to 4K 120 on an older TV), many screens just say "No signal" or "Out of range". Reset the output to something safe:
- PS5: turn it fully off, then hold the power button until the second beep (about 7 seconds) to start Safe Mode, connect the controller with a USB cable, and choose Change Video Output > Change Resolution. Or try "Change HDCP mode" there.
- Xbox Series X|S / One: with the console off, hold the power and eject buttons (or power and pair on Series S) until the second beep to start in low-resolution mode, then set the display options again.
- Windows PC: start in Safe Mode (it uses a basic resolution), or with a second screen attached, set the problem screen's resolution and refresh rate to its native values.
- Streaming boxes and set-top boxes: most have a button combination or menu reset for video output; check the maker's support page.
5. Soundbars and receivers in the chain
A soundbar or AV receiver between the source and TV has to pass the video through. If it's off, in the wrong mode, or too old for 4K HDR, the TV gets nothing. Connect the source directly to the TV, and send sound to the soundbar from the TV's eARC / ARC HDMI port instead.
6. Is the source actually sending?
- Desktop PC: plug into the graphics card, not the motherboard. If fans spin but there are no beeps, no drive light and no picture on any port, the PC may not be finishing its start-up (memory or graphics card not seated, or a failed update). Reseat the RAM and graphics card, and look up any beep pattern in the motherboard manual.
- Laptop: press Win+P and pick Duplicate or Extend; on some laptops a function key (often Fn+F4 or F8) switches outputs. Update the graphics driver if the port worked before an update.
- Console: a solid white light and beeps but no picture after the steps above, on two different TVs, points to the console's HDMI port, which a repair shop can replace.
Related
Second monitor not detected · PS5 / Xbox HDR washed out · TV game mode · Monitor stuck at 60 Hz
Questions
Why does my TV say no signal when HDMI is plugged in?
The TV isn't receiving a picture it can use on that input. Check it's on the right HDMI input, unplug both devices from the wall for a minute, power on the TV first, then try another cable and port.
How do I fix no signal on a PS5?
Turn the PS5 off, hold the power button until the second beep to start Safe Mode, connect the controller by USB and choose Change Video Output to lower the resolution or change HDCP mode. Also try the original HDMI cable and a different TV port.
Why does my monitor say no signal when my PC is on?
The cable may be in the motherboard port instead of the graphics card, the PC may not be finishing its start-up, or it's sending a refresh rate the monitor can't show. Move the cable to the graphics card and listen for beep codes.
Can a bad HDMI cable cause no signal?
Yes. Cables fail at the plugs, and an older cable that works at 1080p can fail at 4K, HDR or 120 Hz. Swapping the cable is one of the quickest tests.
Why do I get no signal through my soundbar but not directly?
The soundbar has to pass the video through, and older or switched-off soundbars and receivers often can't handle 4K HDR. Connect the source to the TV and run sound to the soundbar from the TV's eARC or ARC port.
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